Quick Gardening Tips

Quick Gardening Tips

Would you like to share one of your Gardening Tips.  Send an email to us atsales@shrubcoat.com and we will add your tip to our site.
Grub Control
Grubs are the larval stage of beetles. There are many types of grubs but the ones which live in the dirt under grass are most likely Japanese Beetle, June Beetle, MayBeetle, Black Turfgrass, Asiatic Garden or some other regional beetle which lays eggs whose larva feed on plants. Grubs live just under grass, usually6 inches to a few feet down, all of which depends on their species, food supplies and the time of year. Grub damage is by far the most common type ofdamage sustained in turf grass throughout the United States . Early detectionwill give you the upper hand when combating thispest. Treating the yard for grub control 3-4 times a year can help to keep the yard and home free of just about any pest! That’s right. The products and treatment schedule neededto get and keep grubs under control has a tremendous benefitin that this very treatment will stop roaches, ants, bees, wasps, termites and just about any type of common pest in and around the house from ever getting established. This means that if you aregoing to start treating your home for grubs, you willeffectively be treating the home for all kinds of pests!

The Beetles are Coming, The Beatles are Coming…

No, not the British rock invasion you were hoping for, but the Japanese kind that can invade and destroy your landscaping.  Pest management and control can be very involved, time consuming & complicated.  Identification, timing, control methods, weather monitoring, application rates & neighbor notification of use, are all components that you need to consider when trying to manage & control pests.
At Beaver Landscaping we have a NY state Certified Technician who will evaluate your property to determine what is at risk and develop an Integrated Plant Health Program customized just for you.  Call today to schedule an appointment for an evaluation of you property.  750-7044

Aeration  & Overseeding

Aeration is one of the best things that we do as preventative medicine for lawns. Aeration loosens the soil and allows air, water, and nutrients to reach your lawn roots. It is also the best way to help correct the problem of excessive thatch build-up. Additionally, aeration of the lawn improves drainage and the take-up of water by the grass and it encourages deep root growth. Overseeding your lawn will help to fill in sparse areas in your lawn where the grass has died off. Our professionals can top dress, aerate, and overseed your lawn resulting in a more lush and healthy lawn which will make your yard the envy of your street.

Proper Tree Staking  Our Newest Products
Tree staking is probably one of the most commonly debated practices among professionals in the green industry.  Like most horticultural practices there are pros and cons surrounding each.  Proper staking of a newly planted tree can help establish the root system, protect it from the runaway lawnmower and weed whacker or the neighborhood kids.

The tree staking system that I prefer to use  is called “Stake-It-Easy”.  As it’s name suggests, the stakes are easy to install and the kit comes completely assembled with all the parts you need to properly stake a small tree or shrub (up to 1.5” in caliper/diameter).  The easy to adjust and tie nylon rope gets fed through the hole in the custom designed stake.  The rubber branch protectors are the only part touching the stem or branches of your tree which will help prevent scaring or rubbing.  A hammer is all you need to pound the stakes securely into the ground.
The object is to keep the tree straight while the roots get established.  However, make sure the ropes are not so taught that the tree doesn’t have some wiggle room.  Staking it too tight can increase the risk of snapping the stem or causing damage to the tree.  As your tree grows, periodically check and adjust the tension.  Stakes can usually be removed after the first year. Home Page

Why is this Shrub Wearing a Coat?  Home Page
I’m wearing this coat because I’m tired of being sprayed in the face with sticky deer repellants that serve to only anger the deer tugging and  munching on my leaves.  I’m wearing this coat because I’m tired of being wrapped in scratchy burlap that burns my leaves and becomes unraveled leaving me exposed during the windiest of days.  I’m wearing this coat because I’m tired of cold winds that dry out  my youthful leaves, pre-maturely aging  me.  I’m wearing this coat because I’m tired of heavy snow and ice breaking my branches.  I’m wearing this coat because finally my owner cared enough to get me the best in winter plant protection.  They bought me a Shrub Coat.  Now all my problems are solved and I emerge healthy and green in the spring.
Have your owner go to www.ShrubCoat.com to see the wide variety of sizes and selection available. Or call 1-888-Shrub-Coat (1-888-747-8226)

Fungicides were invented to prevent certain fungi from attacking plants.  Once you have a fungus problem, fungicides have to be applied at higher rates and often have to be applied more than once at the high rate.  Using a fungicide as a preventative tool will save you money, time and maybe your plants and shrubbery.

Early Fall Color
If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where you can enjoy the changing of the seasons, then you surely have begun to see the beautiful fall colors displayed by our native trees and shrubs.  While their colors are beautiful and vibrant, an early display of fall color can mean that a problem exists with your trees or shrubs.
Trees and shrubbery under stress will often display their fall colors early, causing premature leaf drop.  While these situations can frequently be caused by unusual weather conditions such as draught or harsh conditions the prior winter, they can also be caused by root or soil problems.  These problems can be treated with fertilization, proper irrigation and soil and root management programs.  Early leaf coloring and drop can also be the result of vascular diseases caused by boring insects.
It should also be noted that changes in your trees and shrubs may be a result of conditions the plant experienced up to 24 months earlier.  It takes time for some stress conditions to show their side-effects.  That’s why it is important to have a professional landscape contractor or arborist to inspect your trees and shrubs to determine the underlying cause of the problem and the proper action plan.

Top 10 Spring Gardening Tips – brought to you by Steve Bakowski, owner of Beaver Landscaping, Inc. Clarence NY 14031 (716) 759-7044

1.  Remove winter debris (leaves, sticks, garbage) from your garden beds.  This eliminates hiding places for mice and over-wintering insect larva.
2.  Prune back broken or desiccated branches from plants.  Pruning helps to maintain your plants shape, encourages proper growth, and helps reduce the risk of insects and fungus attacking the wounded areas.
3.  Cut back any perennials or ornamental grasses remaining from the fall to approximately 2-3” from the ground.
4.  Remove dead flower blooms only from flowering bulbs.  The remaining stem and green foliage helps to nourish your bulbs for the next year.  Do not remove the stem or foliage until it turns brown.
5.  Weeds – every gardener’s persistent and unwanted visitor.  There are annual weeds, perennial weeds, and biannual weeds.  Basically, a weed is anything in a spot you don’t want it.  Keeping weeds from your garden beds is a constant challenge.  Weed pre-emergent help slow the invasion of new weed growth by creating an invisible vapor barrier in your beds.  Try not to disturb this barrier by walking in your beds.  Once a weed goes to seed, expect its family to take root in your garden soon.
6.  Keep excessive heavy mulch away from the stems of your plants.  It can cause too much moisture retention and rotting of the stems.  Proper mulching helps suppress weed growth and maintain moisture, however, too much can have a negative effect.
7.  Rake your lawn to get the grass standing up.  Snow mold can occur due to heavy snow accumulation on the grass.  Raking allows for better air circulation and quicker drying time, allows water movement in the soil, and helps stimulate root growth.  When soil temperatures hit 50 degrees, you will start to see your lawn green up.
8.  Apply Dormant Oil to plants.  As its name suggests, dormant oil needs to be applied to plants when they are in their dormant phase.  The oil will suffocate over-wintering larvae, scale, or insect cocoons before they hatch.  Most plants can be sprayed but the application rate depends on the temperature.
9.  Cut your lawn for the first time in the spring after the following have occurred:  it is no longer saturated with water; it has greened-up from the warmer temperatures (over 50 degrees); it has 2 to 3 inches of new growth.  I prefer a desired cutting height of  2.5 to 3 inches.  This higher cutting height helps to reduce weed growth from seed from neighboring lawns or transmitted by birds, and reduces stress to the lawn on hot summer days.  Grass height = root depth.  Cutting your lawn too short will negatively impact root growth and the overall health of your lawn.
10.  Use a well-balanced fertilizer (10/10/10) in your flower beds to help leaf growth, flowering, and overall plant health.

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